Sur, Oman, is a historic coastal city known for its rich maritime heritage, traditional dhow shipbuilding, and picturesque beaches along the Arabian Sea.
Oman: Wahiba Sands – Desert Camps
After breakfast, we packed up to leave. Our next destination was a desert camp, about a two-hour drive from Riz Al Jinz. I initially thought about taking a longer route, but it looked like it was going to be a gravel track most of the way. So, instead we retraced our steps back to Sur, and then headed inland.
Our rental car was a small SUV, but I was not convinced it would be able to make the trip to the desert camp across the sands, so we had arranged to park our car in a nearby town and get a ride to the camp.
We arrived at the pickup point about an hour early, so we stopped at a small café for a bite to eat and a smoothie – it was cheap and delicious. Afterwards, we met up with Saeed, whose family owned ‘Authentic Desert Camp’ where we would be staying. We loaded up, and were joined by another couple from Italy, and began our ride into the desert.
Wahiba Sands, also known as the Sharqiya Sands, is a stunning expanse of rolling desert dunes, with its vibrant red-orange sands and ever-changing landscape. Named after the nomadic Wahiba tribe, this vast desert offers a glimpse into the traditional Bedouin way of life.
It took us about 20 minutes to travel along sandy roads to the Authentic Desert Camp. There were only eight Bedouin-style tents nestled among some low sand dunes for guests and a communal shelter with cushions for seats. This space was shady and comfortably cool in the heat of the day.
Saeed showed us to our tent, which was simple but spacious, with a large bed, which was the only furniture in the space. Unlike the communal shelter, it was toasty warm inside, and while uncomfortable during the day would make it cosy during the chilly desert nights. There was no electricity to the tent, but there was a small solar-powered lamp for the evenings. We also had a private outside bathroom, with a shower (but no hot water). After settling in for a few minutes, we met with Saeed to book our activities, the options being camel rides and dune bashing. We signed up for both.
We were really tired from having got up so early to watch the sea turtles. Karen went to the communal shelter, and I went to our tent, laid on the bed and was soon asleep. This turned out to be a very bad idea because when I woke up it felt like I was in a furnace.
Towards sunset, we gathered to go on our dune-bashing ride. Saeed was our driver, and we shared the journey with the two Italians.
Saeed took us out to the dunes of the Wahiba Desert, some of which are 60 to 70 metres high. For the next hour, we rode up and down the dunes like a rollercoaster. It was a little scary to begin with, but once we were into the swing of it, we were cheering and hollering on the downside of the dunes
As sunset approached, Saeed parked on the summit of one of the highest dunes where we had incredible views across the vastness of the desert. He pulled a rug and some cushions from the back of his truck and laid them on the ground for us to sit. He then produced a traditional coffee pot, a plate of dates and some firewood. As we lay watching the sun go down, he made a fire and brewed coffee. It was idyllic! The sunset was incredible- it was a perfect end to a great day.
We returned to the camp and got ready for dinner. They made a great effort to accommodate our vegetarian diet.
After dinner, we lay down and looked at the stars. Unfortunately, the moon was bright, which obscured some of the dimmer stars, but it was still lovely to stargaze in silence for a few minutes.
We began to feel cold, as the heat of the day seeped away. It was time to sleep, and our tent, which hours before had been hot, was now a pleasant temperature.
We woke to a chilly morning, although it was very snug under the blankets. I had not slept well, mainly due to the firm mattress and the short bed
The shower had no hot water, so it was a shock to the body stepping into the cold spray. Once showered, we got into our warmest clothes, including wearing a beany, and found a spot in the compound to catch the early morning sun. We stood there basking like lizards waiting for breakfast to be served.
Most people stay at the desert camps for one night. I booked us in for two nights as we had been on the road for nearly six weeks and some downtime would be good. So, after the Italian couple left, we had the camp to ourselves. We took residence in the coolness of the communal shelter and read. There were about five hours before the next visitors would be arriving. It was perfect.
The camp staff prepared some lunch for us, which was wonderful.
At 14:30 other visitors started to arrive.
A short while later the camel rides began. Earlier in the day, we had seen one of the camels behaving badly and then running off. This had put some doubts about riding these beasts. Originally, I had thought about riding one but in the end, I chickened out. So, Karen set out along with a Dutch couple and their young child, who was not too keen at the beginning on the idea of being on a camel – but he warmed to the idea.
Apparently, the ride was good – the Dutch couple bailed out after a short circuit whilst Karen carried on. At one point she was nearly pitched off the front of the camel as it stood up. I was glad not to ride a camel
Later everyone, apart from us, went out on a dune bashing drive. So, for a couple of hours, things got quiet, so we had a nap. Karen made the mistake of sleeping in our tent and then accused me of nearly letting her die from the heat.
After sunset, everyone arrived back at camp and an hour later we all sat down for dinner. Saeed had organised some Bedouin dancing for after dinner – which started with him and his brother dancing to traditional music and ended with everyone doing the Macarena.
Planning your visit
Authentic Desert Camp is located in Al Wasil, Oman, within the Wahiba Sands desert region. To reach the camp, you can follow these steps:
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Travel to Al Wasil: From Muscat, Oman’s capital, drive approximately 200 kilometers south-east to the town of Al Wasil. This journey typically takes around two hours by car.
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Proceed to the Camp: Once in Al Wasil, you’ll need to navigate desert terrain to reach the camp. If you have a 4×4 vehicle and are experienced in off-road driving, you can drive directly to the camp. Alternatively, many desert camps offer transfer services from Al Wasil for guests without suitable vehicles.
It’s advisable to contact Authentic Desert Camp directly to arrange transportation or receive detailed driving instructions. For more information and booking options, you can visit their Booking.com page.
The best time to visit Wahiba Sands
The best time to visit Wahiba Sands in Oman is during the cooler months from October to April. Here’s a breakdown of the seasonal conditions:
🌅 October to April (Best Time)
- Temperature: Daytime temperatures range from 20°C to 30°C (68°F to 86°F), with cooler nights (sometimes dropping to 10°C (50°F)).
- Conditions: Pleasant weather, clear skies, and mild winds — perfect for desert activities like dune bashing, camel riding, and stargazing.
- Peak Season: December to February tends to be the most popular time, so book accommodations and tours in advance.
🔥 May to September (Avoid if Possible)
- Temperature: Can soar above 40°C (104°F), with extreme heat during the day.
- Conditions: The desert can become unbearably hot, making outdoor activities uncomfortable and even dangerous.
✅ Best Recommendation:
- Aim for November to March for the most comfortable weather.
- Try to visit early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat, even during the cooler months.
- For stargazing and camping, the nights from December to February are especially magical due to clear skies and cooler air.
Authentic Desert Camp
Authentic Desert Camp in Wahiba Sands, Oman, offers a truly immersive experience in the heart of the desert, surrounded by golden dunes and stunning sunsets. Nestled deep within the Wahiba Sands, the camp provides guests with a blend of traditional Omani hospitality and modern comfort. Visitors can stay in well-equipped Bedouin-style tents, taste authentic Omani cuisine, and enjoy activities such as dune bashing, camel rides, and stargazing under the clear desert sky. The camp’s peaceful atmosphere and breathtaking desert landscape create a perfect setting for relaxation and adventure, making it an ideal retreat for those seeking to connect with nature and experience the rich cultural heritage of Oman.
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